Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Mumbai Noir
























No one comes to Mumbai for rest and relaxation. Brash, chaotic and glitzy, first impressions of the city tend to be dominated by its chronic shortage of space. Crammed onto a narrow strip of land that curls into the Arabian Sea, the city has been transformed from a fishing village to a sprawling metropolis of over 16 million people in less than 500 years. An inebriating mix of India’s movie industry, large colonial relics, restaurants, cricket clubs and a generous mélange of extremes gives you Mumbai: the richest city in India that has the highest GDP of any city in South, West or Central Asia along with real estate prices that are even more exuberant than Manhattan. Mumbai is India’s financial powerhouse and the center for film, fashion and after-dark frolics. Glistening skyscrapers, bridges and malls mushroom everywhere. Even the slums are renovated into sparkling high-rise condominiums and in true Mahatma Gandhi style the previous slum dwellers are given a flat for free. With a pinch of gumption and a dash of adventure there’s no reason not to dive into the warm tranquility of Mumbai and its oceanic air–head or feet first.

Nearly two years after the Mumbai terrorist attacks it was personally gratifying to visit Mumbai including the Jewish Cultural Center, the iconic Taj and Oberoi hotels. The JCC has bounced back (no surprise there) and has been fully restored, along with the Taj and the Oberoi (renamed Oberoi Trident). A lot of money has been spent at all places to make sure they are air tight and safe. After staying at both the Taj and Oberoi – I could see why Pakistani gunmen chose us as targets. A melting point of culture, the JCC and these hotels offer the very best of global culture: people discuss cross-cultural viewpoints everywhere–something that is simply not permissible in Pakistan or in secular Islamic countries. Globetrotters from Britain, Germany, Russia, Sweden and USA are to be seen here along with Indians – and everyone is having lively conversations. The accents are too many for me to know. Security is tight everywhere in India now. Food at these places is also amazing. The most delicious mango ice cream I have ever tasted is at the Taj. Being here you learn there is opulence and indulgence but there is also real experience.

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